Saturday, January 9, 2010

Braised short ribs

January 5 2010

I go to Piantedosi’s Butcher Shop (in N. Plymouth), faithfully, for fresh short ribs and just ask for “short ribs for four hungry people” – they know the amount for that. It’s ideal if the butcher can saw the ribs for you so all you need to do is separate them for browning and braising. I like to separate them in the classic blocks of one bone per segment. My magical pan (can go from stovetop to oven) can fit eight or so short ribs – they lose a lot of size over braising time. The key to braising short ribs is to braise, not too high of heat!, and to be patient. You add enough water to keep them braising over the cooking time so as to avoid frying the crap out of the short ribs with a thick layer of fat floating on top of charred browned goodness. For best results, after cooking the short ribs, de-fat the pan by cooling it to where the fat rises to the top and solidifies…then you can remove the fat much more easily and warm the short ribs for serving. You can de-fat overnight in the fridge, too. The short ribs will still be rich with the sauce that they’ve braised in for hours.

Braised, de-fatted, savory, rich short ribs melt in your mouth when cooked just right. Because they are so naturally rich they can take a lot of tart so things can be tried…like pomegranate molasses (tart heaven) and other similar tastes. They can also take a lot of dry spice, dry rubs, etc. Spice with respect to their richness and you have a fantastic meal; add to their richness and you’ll be up all night feeling woozy and regretful.

The ingredients that can be used to make sauce in which to braise short ribs can vary in a hundred ways! It’s amazing! Sweetness may be added using honey, molasses, quality fruit jams, fresh fruits, sweet dry spices, etc. Re: star anise: a hint of this spice (half-star for huge pan) adds a slight sweetness and smokiness – too much of this spice becomes nasty quickly; short ribs are very rich and you don’t want to over-sweeten or over-clove them! Acid/tart elements may include vinegar, lemon, wine, rum, pomegranate molasses, capers, etc. Orange juice makes good sugar-meets-tart. Also, heat-spice or dried spice may include dry mustard, hot sauces, dry rubs, etc.

A favorite one of mine:

Chopped onion and garlic with four big hunks of fresh ginger, sautéed with salt & pepper until nicely browned - remove onion/garlic/ginger from pan, set aside.
Add more olive oil and brown short ribs on as many sides as possible - don’t salt them at this point!, and don’t crowd the pan while browning (do them in batches); remove browned ribs from pan and set aside; de-fat pan.
Return onion/garlic/ginger to pan, bring up to temp, add one-half piece of star anise (optional, and add only a half-piece to a large pan!), remove ginger hunks, add tomato paste, healthy glugs of Gosling’s rum, some water for thinning (but not too thin), a bit of molasses, some balsamic, etc. Add short ribs and coat in sauce. Cover pan with lid; bake in oven (325-350 degrees, or lower, depending on your oven) for a few hours, turning ribs in sauce along the way. Drizzle with pomegranate molasses. Remove the star anise after the first hour; remove bones as they slide out over cooking time. Taste as you braise and adjust at will.

For best results, de-fat this dish by cooling (or refrigerating) then lift fat off – warm for serving. I added a few dollops of my homemade Kalamata tapenade to the de-fatted short ribs while warming for serving – can also be served alongside – it’s yummy. Serve short ribs along with anything!...as a meat dish with veggies and starch, or shredded with warmed tortillas, or use for burritos, or serve with couscous, dirty rice…there are endless possibilities.


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